Cairns to the Daintree and on to Cape York

Gav the monkey in the Daintree

We headed from Cairns to Port Douglas and had a look around - super fancy resorts but a beautiful place. Onward we pressed and stopped off at Mossman Gorge but it was so busy we decided to come back on our way back down. Took the ferry over to the Daintree and drove along until we got to a camping ground in the rainforest where we parked up. We went for a nice walk through the rainforest later that afternoon and saw some wild pigs running through and the forest.  

On the road at a stop on the Bloomfield Track

The next day we decided to head through the Daintree towards Cape Tribulation and did a nice boardwalk through the mangroves where we saw a little blue Kingfisher. After taking a few photos at Cape Tribulation we decided to head on further as it was early in the day and tackle the well known and crazy Bloomfield Track. It was a mission with the trailer - up and down, round and round. Some hills were so steep that it was an almost vertical climb and in low gear 1st it took forever! There was this Asian dude riding his bike up through all these hills with his bike laden with camping gear and supplies. We saw him at around 11am and at around 5pm later that day he drove past us where we had camped up at the Lions Den (well known camping ground on the Bloomfield). Went swimming in a freshwater swimming hole and relaxed at the Lions Den pub with a motorbike tour group where everyone was talking about their 4WD stories of the day. 

Me at Cape Tribulation

Coloured Sands Elim Beach

Windy day at Archer Point

The next day we drove on and checked out Archers Point where there is apparently really good fishing. It was so windy when we got out of the car we almost got blown over. We decided to press on and headed into Cooktown where we stocked up on supplies at IGA, got some fuel and filled our water tanks. A couple we met along the road told us about Elim Beach Coloured Sands so we decided to go north toward Hope Vale and turn east to the beach. We parked up at Eddie’s Campground - an Aboriginal bloke who was the land owner and allowed people to camp on his ground. He chatted to us about a couple who had left him earlier with a car that they had got bogged in the mud and he dragged it out. They told him to keep the car and they hitched a ride back to town. Turns out the car was a hire car and they had already called the campground and reported it stolen, leaving Eddie to clean up the mess - some people!! Set up camp and then drove down the beach to check out the coloured sands. It was amazing - there was this gorge that was above the sand dunes and had red, white, cream, black and grey sands all mixed through it. Gav caught some green tree frogs later that day that were in the toilet/shower area - classic Gav moment. 

Gav and I at Elim Beach - check out Gavs shirt tan!

Gav caught a green tree frog

We packed up early in the morning only to realise that we had packed the car keys in the tent - always a happy moment haha. Unpacked, got keys, repacked and on the road to Cape York. Stopped off at Isabella Falls for a look and then crossed the Normanby River and entered Lakefield National Park. Stopped off at the Old Laura Station - hard to believe that people lived out here in the 1930s in full Victorian Dress! Hard enough wearing shorts and a t-shirt. Drove on through the bulldust to Hanns Crossing where we picked a nice camp spot near the river and went barra fishing... had a few lures taken but didn’t actually catch anything. Spent the next day relaxing by the river, fishing, getting buckets of water and spraying each other with the hose because of the crocs and not being able to dive into the delicious cold water when it was 30 degrees! Drove to a lagoon and took some photos of a few birds and Gav spotted a crocodile in the water so we took a few pics. First croc sighting! It wasn’t long before we spotted another one cruising down the river we were camped up - a bit eerie considering we had filled a bucket up from there not long before. 

Me in front of one of the million termite nests we past on the road north

Woke the next day to a rude surprise - a 3m croc was 20m away from our tent eating his breakfast. Gav dashed out to take a photo and the flash made him splash away into the water - real wake up call and reminded us how careful we need to be. Packed up and made our way to Archer River where we had planned to camp but because it was so dusty we decided to head east towards the coast through Iron Range National Park and camped up at Chili Beach. It smelt pretty bad here - some algae on the beach and there was lots of rubbish which apparently floats in from Philippines and Papua New Guinea. We drove to have a look at Portland Roads which was a nice fishing community and got chatting to some bird watchers who were super excited about their birds. As much as I love to spot a bird, i’m not sure that i’m as keen haha. 

Gav caught an injured ibis

The crocodile that was outside our tent eating breakfast

On we pressed towards the Old Telegraph Line track to see whether we could conquer it. We passed Bramwell Station on the way which is the largest station in Northern Australia 1340km2!! We left here to drive the OTL but unfortunately we only got to drive along a little way and made the first crossing but couldn’t make the next. The bank was so steep and we didn’t have enough clearance or articulation with the weight of the trailer to make it. We decided not to take the gamble and lose our 4WD and trip, and headed back to the Bypass roads, where we headed north to Eliot Falls. Here we got to drive along the OTL for a little bit and did a large water crossing, which I got some good footage of - the water was above the bonnet and hitting the windscreen. We spent the next two days chilling out by Eliot Falls, Twin Falls and Fruit Bat Falls. This amazing swimming holes are freshwater and so deep and clear you can see the sandy bottom. It was a great feeling to have the water on your back after so many days driving in the heat. 

Eliot Falls

Gav at Eliot Falls

Me jumping in at Eliot Falls

We arrived in Bamaga and Seisa the next day, which are the main towns before the Tip of Australia. Parked up at Loyalty Beach campground where most of the 4WD community end up. Great spot, right on a sandy beach with palm trees and crystal clear water. It’s unfortunate you can’t go swimming, because the water looks so appealing. The Torres Strait locals don’t seem to mind, jumping off the wharf near Seisa and swimming in to shore. We went fishing off the same wharf later that afternoon and watched a crocodile cruise past - they just don’t seem to mind! Caught myself a little suckerfish (one of those ones that feed of sharks) and Gav a Golden Trevally, which was a delicious dinner!

The Golden Trevally

We headed to the Tip of Australia and did the walk to the top... it was great to finally get there and experience it. Got some photos, and watched all the people from 4WD tours clamber around the rocks almost falling in the water. Everyone laughs at us because we have a surfboard on the roof but we have a standard line now.. “Yeah we use it to paddle the crab pots out...” The look on their faces is priceless. Did a 4WD around 5 beaches on the east coast of the Cape which was beautiful and found a good free camp at Roonga Point. Have made friends with two German guys, Charlie and Andre who we have been travelling with for the last week. They are lots of fun and have taught us how to play backgammon (geeky.. but awesome!) We are now on the road down south.. planning to head toward Laura, then Chillagoe... we will see. 

Gav and I reach the top! 

Will write again soon, stay safe everyone!

N & G

Townsville to Mission Beach and Cairns

We have driven 1000 km from Sapphire to get to Cairns. Along the way we stopped off at Townsville to see Jeremy, and visited the cyclone damaged areas of Cardwell, Tully and Mission Beach. 

On the way to Townsville we took a photo just past the Belyando Crossing that I think is a keeper... we saw an Emu crossing the road with his 9 baby chicks following - was an amazing sight. I also learnt that it is the male emus who look after the young once they are born - interesting fact! I am learning more about birds as the days go on and in fact have bought a field guide...can you picture me with my binoculars looking to identify all the birds? Haha. 

When we got to Townsville we stayed at the Rowes Bay Caravan Park - great park with good facilities. We were told to watch our valuables though as there had been a lot of robberies - this was indeed the case, because two nights later the couple next to us Greg and Noleen got all their valuables stolen from their tent while they were sleeping. I suggested to Gav that we buy some locks to lock our zippers on the tent together... more for a sense of security than anything else! That night we visited Jeremy at his workplace and had gelato on the Strand. The next day we walked all the way along the Strand (kind of like Manly Promenade) and saw different art exhibitions along the way. It’s weird to see the difference in surf lifesaving clubs - the nippers wear full stinger suits and there are containers of vinegar everywhere... not to mention ‘Beware Crocodile’ signs. Went out for dinner with Jeremy to the Watermark bar on the Strand and a few beverages. While in Townsville we also drove up Castle Hill and looked at the awesome 360 degree view. We felt a little lazy because between 4:30pm and 6:30pm everyday the locals all run up and down the steep goat tracks to get to the top. We did however have the excuse that Gav had hurt his knee (what was mine and Jeremy’s excuse?? pure laziness haha)

We then headed north passing through Ingham, deciding to come back to do Hinchinbrook Island on the way back. Kept going and took a turn off to visit Lucinda - they have a 5.7km jetty that is used to transport sugar cane to the boats that can’t get in because of the reef. It was super long! We then drove on through Cardwell and Tully to Mission Beach - the cyclone damage from Cyclone Yasi is still very much apparent with entire mountains stripped of trees and houses with roofs still covered in tarpaulins. We ended up staying at Mission Beach Council Caravan Park - cheap and right on the beach. Mission Beach is a ‘Cassowary Conservation Zone’, although we never saw one during our stay - “Watch out cassowaries about!!”. Drove to Bingal Bay and felt the water with our toes - so warm but not game enough with a recent crocodile sighting. Did some fishing, beach walks and just generally tried to relax after our hectic rush to get to the top! But after two days we were itching to get back on the road and decided to pack up and head further north. 

We arrived in Cairns and sorted out some tyre issues - getting a new rim for our spare on the roof and three new tyres for the trailer with more tread that will be better in Cape York. Shopped around and got a good price. Phoned the Info Centre to find a council caravan park at Palm Cove (20 minutes north of Cairns). What an oasis! It’s a cheaply run caravan park with basic facilities but for $19 a night, right on the beach and next to the jetty in one of the most exclusive parts of north Queensland - definitely a find. We went fishing that night and caught a 20cm mud crab which Gav cooked up for a feast. Yesterday we headed up to Kuranda, 20 minutes up the mountain from where we are staying. We visited the Butterfly Sanctuary where some 1500 butterflies live including the Ulysses (bright blue) and Birdwing species (bright green, black and yellow). The butterflies landed on your head, arms and shoulders. Went to the markets and then on to Barron Gorge where we saw Barron waterfall. Then on to Crystal Cascades - a magical place where you can go swimming in freshwater swimming holes. The water was so clear you could see all the fish swimming around and you could also go down the waterfalls like slippery dips. Today we went to Cairns city and visited the organic food markets and walked along the Esplanade - was nice to see the city in full swing with heaps of people out and about enjoying the weather (29 degrees) including lots of backpackers. At Palm Cove it has been exceptionally windy today so we spent the afternoon trying to shelter from it! Another day and then we are off again, this time further north toward Mossman Gorge and Cape Tribulation. 

Will write again soon with more news. Hope all is well in your world. 

N & G

Carnarvon Gorge and Sapphire

On the road again... After Lightning Ridge we headed through St George, stopping overnight in Roma. Early the next day we set off and dropped in at the Visitor Centre in Injune. Spoke to a lovely lady about Carnarvon Gorge and we booked in to stay at the Tarakaka Park. 110km north and 40km west we found an oasis in the middle of the desert! 

Our set up at Carnarvon Gorge 

Getting close to nature

In the gorge looking up towards the light

Balancing on a log in the gorge 

Some of the Aboriginal Rock Art at Carnarvon Gorge 

This magical place had lots of wildlife, beautiful scenery and long walks. That afternoon we took a walk to Micky's Gorge which was just breathtaking - moss and green rocks everywhere, tree ferns and we walked through water knee deep to get right up into the gorge. Saw a baby echidna, rock wallabies and birds galore! Went on another walk to Baloon Cave where there was Aboriginal Rock Art.

Baby echidna we saw 

Gav sleeping in a rock ledge in the Gorge 

Next day we woke to a cloudy morning, which was perfect bush walking weather. After breakfast we headed on the Carnarvon Gorge Walk a 15km round trip. Although it was a fairly long way it was all relatively level and we did a few river crossings - hop, skip and a jump across stones. Took in the Art Gallery, which is a rock wall covered in Aboriginal art work, then on to Wards Canyon, a little waterfall amongst a deep canyon high in the mountain. We then headed on to the Amphitheatre (my personal favourite) where you climb ladders up into a hidden rainforest in the gorge. Lastly we visited the Moss Garden, where a waterfall goes over a rock face and into moss covered rocks. Watched a thunder storm roll through as we finished the walk, taking shelter in the Visitor Centre.

The Amphitheatre 

Gav and I at the Amphitheatre 

Me using the sieves

Stones we found

After an early start the next day, we headed on towards Emerald where we stopped in at the Visitor Centre to get some information on the Gem Fields surrounding the area. Got ourselves a Fossicker's Licence, booked in at the Blue Gem Caravan Park and headed west to Sapphire. In the afternoon we went out to the Heritage Mine and did a tour with a crazy old bird - classic who I think had a thing for Gav haha. Then we did a bit of a fossick in their tourist park - didn't find much. 




The next day we went on a real Fossicker's tour with a company called Fascinations - took us out on a 4WD track to a place called Glenelva where we spent 6 hours with a bloke called Keith learning how to use a pick and shovel to locate the sapphire level, taking buckets to a sorter which sorts out the bigger and smaller rocks, washing the rocks with a Willoughby in sieves, then looking for stones. All in all we ended up with 12 sapphires and 1 zircon of which 5 were of size - so a pretty good result. Got a bit sunburnt - starting on the QLD tan. The next day we went to a German sorting house for sapphires and did some fossicking there as well - ended up finding heaps more smaller sapphires, one larger one and about 6 other zircons. Got one of the sapphires cut and a zircon - getting them sent to Lake Conjola.

Gav using the Willoughby

Currently in Townsville after a 650km drive yesterday. Catching up with Jeremy tonight for a few beers and pizza - staying in Rowes Beach Caravan Park but will hopefully be staying with Jeremy tomorrow. Will write with more news in the next week. Over and out, N & G.